Posts

Poor little Mogwai wasn’t a happy cat the other day. Normally a greed-bucket of note, she turned her nose up at at least four meals. Here she is empathising with Jeffrey Steingarten. (She’s all better now. She managed about a third of my bowl of – heavily wasabi-spiced – popcorn last night). In other news, [...]

Nah, just kidding, of course I didn’t make brownies with duck fat. But recently the aromas of brownies and duck fat (cooking separately) in our kitchen were positively intoxicating, and made me think of an article I read many years ago when Ferran Adria was still a novelty (“Is that Ham Fat on my Cherry?”). [...]

Being in the family of a prominent restaurant reviewer sometimes has its perks: for one thing, we have easy and direct access to a wealth of information about where to go (or not), and secondly, a constant gentle pressure to eat out so we can report back on our experiences. Given that this is something [...]

Recent brownie successes have apparently heralded a new bountious era for our kitchen. (The cracked brownies, by the way, were not definitive. They were so sweet that they haunted me in my sleep and the next day I got up and baked a new batch of my own – heavily intertextual – invention. This second [...]

Since I was gifted a pasta-rolling machine for my birthday, I have been scheming about what other great uses to put it to: puff pastry, Danish pastry. Basically, all and any variations on a rolling theme. Yesterday I finally cleared a mental afternoon for playing with dough (that’s mental as in I cleared the afternoon [...]