If Gollum were a popstar…

I think he would look something like Michael Jackson in This Is It. We finally watched this fascinating and bizarre film, and when I wasn’t happily grooving along to the beat (I loved this man as a teenager, and still think Billie Jean is one of the best songs EVAH), I was struck by how slimy it was for this 50 yr old man to be pretending to be Michael Jackson. The Philosophe’s description of him was, aptly, alien.

This was the only picture I could find (=poach) of this jacket he wears quite often. Unfortunately it doesn’t do justice to how truly weird it makes him look. But I guess we all knew that about him already. And also that he did have some serious groove.

(Un)relatedly, the Sunday Times today published a picture of Queen Elizabeth getting onto a train. The caption reads: “Disguised as a little old lady, Queen Elizabeth II boards a passenger train at King’s Cross Station in London from where she travelled to Norfolk for Christmas.” Disguised indeed. (See for yourself).

Well, we all like pretending, I suppose. Just a few nights ago we enjoyed an afternoon of creating, and then an evening of eating, smushi. (Danish open-faced sandwiches pretending to be sushi. Obviously).

On the left, rye bread with herring and quail egg (plus piece of Katjes herring liquorice), a little salmon rose with caviar, and the highlight: shrimp cocktail (the crisp is the clue).

Top left, quail confit (bound with some delicious hoisin sauce) with a litte egg and a little lollipop drumstick, starry bread with salami, remoulade and crispy onions, choux bun “hotdog” with chipolatas and most of “det hele“, and finally pariserbøf (genius really: a burger pattie fried with a slice of bread) – the radish slice is a good indication of the preparation implications of this stuff. An hour in the kitchen, a minute on the lips (as they say).

There was a cheese plate too, and a dessert plate, each of which was  delicious – as was the copious good wine, which made for copious merriment. In fact I’d say we were all as full and happy as this lump of marzipan pretending to be a pig.

(The pig was the prize for finding a whole almond in a spoonful of Danish rice pudding, so it is no longer in my care. I do not know if it still exists in its present form. But I can tell you that it had a good life, and produced very little methane.)

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A silly season of silly people

So the Philosophe and I took an afternoon walk yesterday to go collect his car after being serviced. Which means it was before 5pm, and the roads were full of people eager to get home, or to the beach, or wherever grumpy people go after work on the day before a public holiday in Cape Town (today the world has shut down in observance of “Day of Reconciliation”, whatever that is).

Soon, on our narrow pavement next to said cars, we were (not unusually) accosted by someone asking for money. But (unusually, thankfully), said beggar/gangster/dirty person threatened to be hiding a big knife in his sleeve pocket, and refused all the usual refusals of money (“no, not today”; “sorry, we can’t help you”, etc). As grumpy/complacent/pussy people drove by in their cars and watched the show, b/g/dp managed to threaten us into a state of fear and submission thick enough to walk away with all the money in the Philosophe’s wallet – R100 in this case, surely a bounty for b/g/dp with his maybe-maybe-not imaginary knife, and a small price to pay for our safety.

It’s a sobering kind of experience. Mostly because in the 15 years or so that I have lived in this country notorious for its high crime-rate and “unsaftey index”, this is the very first time that I have been that fearful. It doesn’t happen every day, and it’s very unlikely that it will happen again to me or to us again in the near future. (Besides, that stuff only happens to tourists, those easy targets!).

Still, now I don’t want to walk anywhere anymore. I know that life must go on as usual – and yesterday we faced that challenge valiently, it being the cocktail hour and all, soon to be followed by the dinner hour (which consisted of ostrich burgers laced with gin, juniper and dried apricots – not to mention a salad dressed with horseradish and caramelised celery. Yum).

Statistically, yes, life should go on as usual. But is that really the most efficient way to go about life? We listened to someone call into the radio today – the program featured some sort of laughing expert – it was a preacher calling to hear how he could teach himself to laugh after losing both his wife and his daughter. That’s fair and well, a laugh might be a good form of catharsis, but wanting to laugh in the face of tragedy also diminishes the value grief and (if applicable) remorse. I don’t think I’ve experienced a freakier thing than a Baptist memorial where NO ONE cried – all song and dance in “celebration” the deceased’s life. It was actually scary.

And if a friend betrays or hurts you? Should life go on as usual? If the friendship is over, then probably yes. But if not, it must be the duty of anyone who cares about that friendship to say something, and to do what they can to prevent life-as-usual, which can only be artificial from then on.

“Get over it” may sound like the harshest and most difficult of sentences, but being in it is actually the greater challenge. It takes courage to face that which truly sucks, whether it’s random or predictable.

In a parallel universe, I suppose we could have been killed or seriously injured, senselessly, yesterday. We didn’t, and life will go on. But it’s also worth paying attention to the fact that it feels really good that none of that happened. Life can be quite shit, but it can also be very worth living, if only to reminded of the urgency, once in a while, of knowing that you always did the best that you could.

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Green green grass

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The grass was this green in Maryland two weeks ago when we were there. And it’s taken me almost that long to shake the grass-is-greener-over-there feeling that I often get when I return from long, cool trips.

Don’t get me wrong – I was glad to be home the moment we set foot in the door. I’m talking about that (mostly pleasant) travelling hangover that hits you when you regale friends with your adventures, especially in that “hmm” (“pensive”) moment after everyone has finished laughing about the absurdity of pretending to be from Djibou or about scary dinners. “Hmm,” you chuckle wisely, “those people are just weird.” And yet you wish you were still there.

I’m over that now. (I also  think we’ve run out of friends to bore with our Djibouti stories). Cape Town summer is upon us, and when it’s not horrible, it’s very nice (Doctor’s logic). I’ve even gotten over regretting not getting to Plato’s Palate in Bethesda – which I wouldn’t have been able to even if we’d tried, as it’s apparently closed. But I haven’t been able to stop thinking about an ouzo burger since the Philosophe told me he once ate one there. (Meat that tastes like liqourice? My inner Viking was aroused).

Well, you don’t have to be in Vegas or Maryland to make fantasies come true. We had ouzo burgers for dinner last night. Armed only with my imagination, a little common sense, and the dregs of a ten-year old bottle of ouzo, I took on the curious task of reconstructing a taste I’d never experienced.

This made sense: Meat + generous slosh of ouzo + slosh of Worcestershire sauce + lots of garlic and pepper + less oreganum and hot English mustard.

Wisely (according to some, anyway – see below) salting the patties only before cooking, we fried those babies up and topped them with slices of Brie, crispy bacon and caramelized onions. I don’t know if they would live up to Plato’s Palate, but I do know they were fine, and it is a matter of a short time only before I start introducing the weird and wonderful contents of our liquor cabinet to much more meat. (It’s genius really, like Bloody Marys: food and drink in one).

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This photograph is not mine, but comes from the always-entertaining A Hamburger Today, where KenjiGoodEater has yet again gone to some lengths to figure out what works (check out his post on the Blumenburger). His latest topic is salting – before, during, or after? – and he came up with these two pieces of evidence as to what happens when you salt the meat before grinding (right), and just before cooking.

I in fact did add a little salt just before I formed the patties, and some more in the pan. I also cooked the burgers well-done (as I do), but they were totally juicy, and if I do say so myself (it’s my blog), f**king delicious. The powers of alcohol!

And maybe some other random factors. Like the right appetite, the constant attentions of Mogwai (the cat), and the solid conviction, as I sat down and tucked into my ouzo burger, that there was no place in the world I would rather be. Yes, the grass is pretty darn green in Cape Town too.

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VHDTV

chickens

So I’ve just experienced my first Thanksgiving. Admittedly an untraditional one, as there was no turkey bird on the table. But we did feast on these two headless chickens after they perched on soda cans filled with beer (and other secret ingredients) for a good couple of hours on the barbie/bbq/braai (during which time they were basted liberally with porter/stout for that damn fine golden finish).

The birds were very good, and we enjoyed some fine wine with the meal. Less good was the broccoli casserole which was also on the table, and which I believe was my first taste of a truly American recipe – the kind that involves combining three or four ingredients out of cans (Google apple pie and at least one with give you this list of ingredients: one unbaked pie shell, one can of apple pie filling. You know the ones). This dish involved broccoli, mushy rice, two tins of mushroom soup, a box of Velveeta (what IS that stuff anyway?) and a box of Ritz crackers (to be crushed). Mix, mash, mush, bake in oven. Stodge. I guess we were the odd ones out, because 5/7 of the table company seemed to love it, and it was even hauled out and re-heated out the next day with the epithet “excellent.”

But each to their own. Whatever. It’s just a casserole.

Much freakier altogether was sitting at a table with a bunch of people who could fall under the category “family” or “friends” (used here very expansively) with fewer than seven degrees of separation – just a “step-” here, and an “-in-law” there. Yes, we dined with rednecks (used here with all respect: Leroy did grow up on a cattle farm, and probably had a sunburnt neck during summer too). And a TSA officer (in uniform) with a military wife.

Needless to say my joke about how annoying it is to have to take off shoes and belt when travelling wasn’t well received in that company. After that I decided to keep quiet, which was the best tactic anyhow, because these (scarily authentic) Americans SHOUT. They shouted about football. They shouted about how small the pepper mill was. They shouted about a whole lot of other stuff which I hardly understood a word of.

And then it occurred to me, sitting next to the Philosophe and his father and brother on our quiet side of the table, that this wasn’t like Reality TV. It was even worse, like being inside the television set by some giant geographical accident. This was Very High Definition Television, which is about as much fun as discovering that the Jaws movie you’re watching isn’t just 3D, but that you’re in the water, and a very real live shark is about to take a big chunk out of your person. Sit still and be quiet, and if you’re lucky, it’ll all soon be over.

Yes, I even begin to see the value in user guides:

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So, I ate, I drank, I got scared. Perhaps an authentic Thanksgiving after all?

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More illusions of grandeur

Vegas is hard. Too much to do. Too little time. Too little money. Too little sleep. Too many (beloved, evil) slot machines. You have to keep up with a crazy city built on illusions, some of which come in the form of being constantly accosted on the streets by people trying to entice you with girls and “free” shows.

Well, we fell hard and fast for the latter, even in full knowledge of having to sit through a 90-minute presentation on time-share opportunities at the soon-to-open new Planet Hollywood Towers. But we thought what the hell – all we had to do was pretend we were from Djibouti (South Africans don’t qualify – don’t ask, I don’t know why) and listen to a schpiel before we would be rewarded with massively discounted tickets to a show featuring none other than the bimbo ex-Playgirl Holly Madison.

Of course we didn’t count on getting a salesman from Morocco when we decided to be from Djibouti, so there were one or two agonizing moments of having to answer questions about that country’s language and currency. Fortunately my guess at the Djibouti Franc was indeed correct, but there is no language called Djibouti (hey, for a country with an eponymous capital city, anything is possible). But Mr. Morocco-turned-American-citizen-now-selling-Planet-Hollywood-time-shares didn’t catch on, so we emerged relatively unscathed (2 hours later!), and happily claimed our Holly Madison tickets.

We planned to reward ourselves with lunch at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon, but that was closed, so we ended up back in the fake world of Venice, at Wolfgang Puck’s Postrio. It was very very good.

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The Philosophe’s burger was the kind that a lightweight shouldn’t mess with, and as it turned out, he is a (Vegas) lightweight. He was defeated by it. And so was I by my “light” selection of three house-made sausages (chicken and sundried tomato, black pepper and pistachio, and smoked kielbasa). But we were happily sated by fine fare and excellent service.

Much later, Holly Madison, alas, was much less to write home about. So no more about that here.

Lunch today: the legendary Fatburger.

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Look at that cute “Babyfat” (ie. small). It was the perfect size for this doctor. My gallant companion, however, was defeated once again by his bigger version. I don’t blame him though – everything here is TOO BIG. I couldn’t even finish my super-size breakfast apple this morning.

But at least the burgers here are real.

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Human again

There is a very particular kind of pleasure attached to arriving at a destination, particularly after sitting on your arse for thirty hours to get there. Imagine, then, that the destination is Las Vegas, and that the pleasure of being able to walk again is complemented by an arrival hall that makes no mistake about where you are:

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(Yes, for those who can’t wait for the strip, those are slots)

and

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Double bonus: our luggage arrived in the two pieces that we sent, so we could soon get on with getting to THE hotel (emphasis in the original),

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where we were happily upgraded to a bigger, better room. But here our luck stopped temporarily, because the bigger, better room wasn’t ready yet, so we were forced to spend three hours in the casino in our 30-hour outfits (including face, hair and addled brains): not a good state to be surrounded by that much bling.

But, resourceful people that we are, we accepted our new hostage situation with grace, and when we finally got the bigger, better room, the shower that awaited made it all worthwhile. How sweet the combination of hot water, soap, fluffy gowns and clean clothes in a bigger, better room in Vegas after now nearly 40 hours with too little sleep.

Of course we should have crawled straight into bed, which is the only thing the clean re-humanised body really craves. But Vegas is the city that never sleeps. And besides, it was only 4pm local time. So after an energising concoction of vodka and taurine, we hit the streets for a brisk 45 min walk (!!) to dinner at Mario Batali’s Enoteca.

The Venetian (like much of Vegas) is famed for its superior fakeness – this time fake Venice, of course, with canals and gondolas and a sun which really never sets.

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(That’s not the real sky. And the water in the canals looks clean enough to swim in. That’s fake Venice for you).

Two of our party of seven were late, so due to a ridiculous policy of not seating an incomplete party, we gave Enoteca THE finger (emphasis in the original), and relocated to Batali’s other eatery in the same establishment:

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It was a good evening. The fake Batali in the kitchen obviously knew his or her stuff, so we were rewarded with fine food and wine (Batali’s rabbit may even be as good as my own). Some time later we even found our way into a bigger, better bed and slept undisturbed by babies and swollen ankles and bad movies on little screens.

Up at 6am, I think the Rousseaus are back in action. Vegas, baby: beware.

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Game Plan

I was recently delighted to discover that the Caviar deli at the Waterfront sells duck fat – and at R10 for 250ml of the real stuff (self-packaged, presumably recycled from all their own duck business, as it should be)!.

I’ve also been on a bunny hunt ever since I saw this recipe for grilled rabbit confit (how could I not be, especially after the advice at the bottom of the page that rabbit confit makes the ‘best deep-fried rabbit you’ll ever have’?). So I finally paid a visit to my friendly German butcher Uwe, who indeed had a whole little rabbit for me. Since I was there, and since I was planning to melt copious amounts of fat anyway, I came home with a couple of duck legs too, and three other little birds who looked like they had died just for confit:

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(I’ve seen quail confit recipes that use just the “lollipop” drumsticks. But really, why not go the whole bird?).

But before I pressed on with the confit, I had to try some braised rabbit, which I’ve enjoyed once or twice but never made. So I floured, seasoned and seared half the bunny, added to some aromatics (chorizo, onion, rosemary, garlic, coriander seeds, a clove or two), deglazed with a bottle of wine, added a clump of frozen home-made chicken stock and a couple of tablespoons of sweet tangy mustard, returned the rabbit to the pot. After sitting in a low oven for a good number of hours, I de-boned the meat, added some vegetables, cooked some truffled polenta. Dinner was, I believe, a success:

mustard rabbit

In the meantime the rest of the birds and rabbit had been curing in the fridge, so the next morning I got on with

DSC00954(There’s nothing to see here but duck legs boiling in their own fat. Ah, but the smell!!)

and

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and of course the three little birds.

Cooked, cooled, submerged in fat, they all now sit in the fridge, and we wait (hoping for maturation rather than spoilage). Which is fine, as tomorrow the Philosophe and I begin our real game plan, which starts with four days in Las Vegas. No point in saying a word until I actually get there. I know what to expect and I don’t. But I do know that if the evil slot machines send me home a poor and bereft woman, I will at least be sucking on confit quail legs, or perhaps a slice of toasted baguette with rillettes while I ready the rabbit for the deep-fryer. The champagne is already chilling in the fridge.

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Notes from a gastronomic blasphemer

I’ve just returned from a few days in the horrible, big city (not soap opera) they call Egoli. Yes, Johannesburg has “vibe”. It’s got “buzz”. And if legend is anything to go by, it’s full of people who are much friendly than in Cape Town (we’re all inglorious basterds here). But it’s also a vast, sprawling, mass of ugliness and traffic and tension and really bad malls.

Don’t get me wrong. I had a lovely time. I got to hang out with my mother, and we stayed with a couple who we see too rarely, but with whom my family shares the kind of history that makes arriving at their house feel like coming to some kind of home. Their kitchen table stands where it has for my entire working memory (that’s something in the region of a quarter of a century), and it’s the best kind of kitchen table, where everything happens. It’s where you sit at the end of the day for a cup of coffee and feel the day morph into evening, and coffee into wine as someone gets busy at a nearby chopping board for dinner. It’s where you have morning coffee and a slice of toast before everyone goes their separate way. It’s where you park in the middle of the afternoon with a magazine and a slice of carrot cake.

For our final night my mother and I wanted to provide for a change. So we came back from afternoon mall expeditions armed with wine, snacks and a dinner plan. Snacks were simple: chips and a dip, a bit of biltong. That went well enough, until Monday’s snack of some avo-and-salmon terrine + crackers were added to the table. Then we were joined by a film maker who spends half his time in France, and once we got a bit of chardonnay into his veins, the talk turned to the foie gras he had recently brought to the very same table, and we all sang the virtues of having travelling friends who bring us exotic and delicious, and sometimes very strange, table delights. That led to the pulling out of the wasabi peanuts (which I had brought for my mother from Cape Town), and they were tasted with due caution by the film maker, and enjoyed with abandon by the rest of us.

It soon emerged that he still had a tin of foie gras mousse in his room, which he proceeded to fetch. Now, I have never eaten foie gras, partly because of my circumstance (why would I have eaten it? I grew up in Swaziland and live in South Africa), and partly because it’s never really interested me much. I anticipate something very creamy, rich, and slightly bilious because it will turn out that it’s not ice cream, and in fact doesn’t taste of much at all, but just coats your mouth in a layer of something you wish wasn’t there.

As soon as the can was opened I knew I was right. As the rest of the table salivated and drooled with their crackers at the ready, I tried to ignore my angst about having to get excited about this stuff, but I got my cracker and followed the pack. I wouldn’t say it’s nasty. But it’s not very nice. And the tin gives off the same smell you get when you open a tin of dogfood.

There. It may just have been mousse, and therefore not the “real thing”, but I had my first taste of foie gras and it was not very nice. And I don’t believe it ever will be, just as I don’t think I will ever develop a love for oysters. And while I did hate aubergines and celery as a child, and now love them after having “developed” a taste for them, oysters and foie gras are not the same because they are some of the few things in the gastronomic world which have this strange status as fetish. Anyone who loves food must love them for the simple reason that they are “delicacies”, which they are because they are hard to come by, expensive, produced by dubious methods, on the verge of extinction, etc (any or all of the above).

Well gold and diamonds are hard to come by and expensive too, but I don’t like them either. In fact I can’t think of anything worse than being given a diamond encrusted gold ring. I would pawn it instantly, and spend the money on scooters for the Philosophe and I to navigate our inglorious basterd city during the World Cup, and with the last R20 I would buy some chicken livers from Pick & Pay and make my mother’s delicious chunky, well-done (indeed crusty!) chicken liver pate.

(Anyone with diamond-encrusted gold rings you’re looking to get rid of, feel free to send them here, under my name.)

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Pork the pork

I often come across recipes by Yotam Ottolenghi via my Guardian food & drink Google feed (isn’t it incredible that that phrase makes sense?), though his column there is called “The new vegetarian“, so I rarely pay it much attention. But last weekend I had the good fortune to be stuck in a country house with a copy of O’s “The Cookbook”, and after a quick flip through I was forced to sit and read the thing from cover to cover. Well, as far as rapid intake of all recipes goes.

A desirable cookbook falls into one of two categories for me: either I open a random page and find something unique and interesting that I hadn’t thought of, or I find myself wanting to make every single recipe. O’s falls into the latter.

Two days later I started my quest with the pork belly. I’ve been playing with this piece of piggie fat for a while now: I’ve done the confit, I’ve done the porchetta, the brining, the overnight pressing. This was probably the simplest recipe (one hour at max oven temp, one hour at 170C plus a bottle of wine, one hour at 110), but it may have been the best one yet. The crackling on that baby was outrageous.

Outrageous, I tell you (and so will the Philosophe).

Amazingly, I also had a punnet of gooseberries in the fridge, so I mimicked O’s suggested gooseberry relish (boil them up with some mustard seeds, ginger, onion, vinegar, sugar etc), which quickly became a fantastic friend to the pork. But the friendships didn’t end there: enter O’s cucumber salad with poppy seeds and chillies, throw in Signe’s addition of avo and fresh mint (the chillies were darn hot), and the table was like a frikkin’ Seinfeld reunion. We had much good mouth fun.

The question of what to do with leftover pork belly is less troublesome than how to recycle crackling. Until I discovered that the good people of the US south have been making crackling bread for quite some time. Brilliant! I took it from there myself, and threw the crackling into the food whizzer. The essence of fried pork that emerged went into this batch of ciabatta-ish rolls:

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After that, there was only one respectable thing to do with the remaining pork. Take two forks and pull.

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Without a certified slathering sauce in the kitchen, I pulled out a variety of sweet, sour and hot things and boiled them up with a glug of whisky, and smothered the meat in it.

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Dinner: toasted crackling bread (I Can’t Believe It’s Not Crackling!) with pulled pork and a generous dollop of mint-avo-gooseberry relish. There was no time to take a picture.

And for those of you who think eating meat is somehow destroying the planet, take heart. Pigs fart much less than cows.

Thanks, Mr. O. We will be back.

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Note to self: Stay at home today

When I have the time and inclination (to waste time), I quite enjoy meandering through supermarket aisles – that’s typically also when I go in just to pick up some milk and apples, and come out with three big bags of stuff I didn’t know we “needed.” So I also sometimes get excited by the prospect of a new supermarket to explore, especially when I’ve heard rumours that it’s “amazing”, like some have said of the new SUPER Spar in the uber-chic new extension to the Cape Quarter.

It very soon became apparent to me that there is nothing amazing about this Spar. It is just like all the other Spars, just bigger, and because it is brand new, bordering on mind-numbing inefficiency. Some memorable moments:

1. Waiting 15 minutes for three people – none of whom looked at or spoke to me – to figure out how to weigh and label the portion of chicken curry I wanted (that was BEFORE realising that there were no lids to hand to close the container).

2. Checkout woman putting a piece of gingeron the scale and asking me if that “is garlic, right?”

3. Same checkout woman scanning beetroot sprouts and being confronted with the message that ITEM NOT FOUND on her machine, which she took to mean that “something” had gotten into the (already full) bag without having been scanned. We then had to unload all the scanned items to check that they had in fact been scanned before she cottoned onto the fact that ITEM NOT FOUND means that she had to manually input a barcode for the very last item to pass the scanner, ie. the beetroot sprouts.

4. During the re-checking procedure watching the same checkout woman unable to identify what the bill listed as “mint”. At the time, she happened to have her hand on a packet of

mint.

Restaurant reviewers often have a healthy policy of not visiting a new establishment in the first month or so of its opening, in order to give them a chance to iron out the kinks. I think this principle might be usefully applied to supermarkets too, but I can’t help wondering: if you are not ready to open (ie. if you haven’t made sure that all the machines are functioning and competent, including the human ones at checkout counters), then WHY OPEN?

I’ll be giving that “Super” Spar a wide berth from now on, and given my experience with morons driving Mercedes Benzes (ie. Kompressor Tossers) while talking on their cellphones on my way home, I think it best to give the whole outside world a big fat miss for the rest of today.

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